Florence stands in what is essentially a basin, surrounded by the rolling Tuscan hills. Atop many of these hills are various settlements, which make for good destinations for those wanting to escape the hordes and general bustle of the city centre. A few days ago I felt like exploring somewhere outside the city, and so made my way northwards up the Borgo Pinti to the small town of Fiesole.
If nothing else, the hike is worth it for the scenery of the walk itself, which sees a rapid transition from outer suburbs to country villas and olive groves, all at the comfortable temperatures of October sunshine. About halfway up the long climb is the village of San Domenico, which contains the eponymous convent featuring a Madonna and Child by Early Renaissance great Fra Angelico (known in Italy now as Beato Angelico in reference to his beatification). This is a good place to stop as there are a few cafes and bars, but I pressed on so as to have more time in Fiesole itself.
After ascending the unforgivingly steep Via Vecchia Fiesolana, I emerged into the central marketplace of Fiesole, with its bronze statues of Garibaldi and Vittorio Emmanuele II, who unified Italy in the 1860s. The town boasts a range of things to see: chief on my list was the Roman amphitheatre complex, featuring remnants not only of a theatre but also a temple and baths. The town's history starts before the Roman days, though, as it was once an Etruscan hill fort, some of the walls of which still remain, along with an extensive collection of artefacts from the period on display in the Roman complex's adjacent archeology museum. If you are up for yet more hill-climbing, on the very top of the hill is the Convento di San Francesco, which gives a superb panoramic of the surrounding area, as well as showing the well preserved cells of Bernadino Da Siena and St. Francis himself.
Of course, I decided to spend about an hour and a half walking up here, but it is perfectly possible and convenient to get a fifteen-minute number seven bus from the Piazza San Marco to Fiesole's market square. If, however, you feel like a proper, day-long outing, I thoroughly recommend walking, as it is a cathartic escape from Florence, while the glorious views you get remind you that you are never far away.
If nothing else, the hike is worth it for the scenery of the walk itself, which sees a rapid transition from outer suburbs to country villas and olive groves, all at the comfortable temperatures of October sunshine. About halfway up the long climb is the village of San Domenico, which contains the eponymous convent featuring a Madonna and Child by Early Renaissance great Fra Angelico (known in Italy now as Beato Angelico in reference to his beatification). This is a good place to stop as there are a few cafes and bars, but I pressed on so as to have more time in Fiesole itself.
After ascending the unforgivingly steep Via Vecchia Fiesolana, I emerged into the central marketplace of Fiesole, with its bronze statues of Garibaldi and Vittorio Emmanuele II, who unified Italy in the 1860s. The town boasts a range of things to see: chief on my list was the Roman amphitheatre complex, featuring remnants not only of a theatre but also a temple and baths. The town's history starts before the Roman days, though, as it was once an Etruscan hill fort, some of the walls of which still remain, along with an extensive collection of artefacts from the period on display in the Roman complex's adjacent archeology museum. If you are up for yet more hill-climbing, on the very top of the hill is the Convento di San Francesco, which gives a superb panoramic of the surrounding area, as well as showing the well preserved cells of Bernadino Da Siena and St. Francis himself.
Of course, I decided to spend about an hour and a half walking up here, but it is perfectly possible and convenient to get a fifteen-minute number seven bus from the Piazza San Marco to Fiesole's market square. If, however, you feel like a proper, day-long outing, I thoroughly recommend walking, as it is a cathartic escape from Florence, while the glorious views you get remind you that you are never far away.
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